Ceretto's classic 2017 Barbaresco opens quickly and nicely in the glass. That playful accessibility is a trait that I found in many of the Barbarescos from this vintage. Compared to the two vineyard-specific expressions (Asili from Barbaresco and Bernadot from Treiso), this wine offers broad brush strokes of wild berry, spice, licorice and iron ore. That's exactly the mission of this wine: It provides an authentic portrait of a grape. Fruit represents a blend from various sites, including young vines from Asili and the lower parts of Bernadot. This wine is poised for near and medium-term drinking.

Pure flavors of cherry, strawberry and rose highlight this elegant red, accented by cut hay, white pepper and tobacco. It's solid and long, with a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2040.