Königsbacher Ölberg Riesling 2016

Vinous - 91

This seems to live up to its name on the nose, with a whiff of oiliness that, when combined with crushed stone and pungent lime zest, puts me very much in mind of Chablis (which isn’t something I say often of a German Riesling, but has frequently applied to this site). Satisfyingly earthy scents and flavors of raw pumpkin (or winter squashes generally) serve as a nice foil for the zesty, bright citricity on a polished palate. The finish here really grips, featuring a stony, chalky undertone and a mouthwatering mingling of marine salinity.

James Suckling - 94

Jancis Robinson - 17

The Ölberg is never short of fruit, but in 2016 the aromas are a little less exotic, with melon, pear and apple coming to the fore. The opulence of the 2015 has given way to a more structured, mineral expression, although there is still plenty of substance and plenty of body. Once again the fruit is green, but not mean, with melon and kiwi providing plenty of flesh and juice, but also an almost crunchy phenolic edge on the finish.